Charles Dickens's Punch

Add the sugar and lemon peels to a heatproof bowl or enameled cast-iron pot and muddle to draw out the citrus oils.

Pour in the rum and cognac.

Warm a little of the spirit mix in a heatproof spoon, light it, and use that flame to ignite the rest of the bowl.

Burn about 3 minutes so the sugar melts and more oil extracts.

Cover with a heatproof lid to put out the fire.

Discard the lemon peels.

Stir in the reserved lemon juice and the hot tea or hot water.

Ladle into ice-filled glasses.

Serves 10.